by: Tim Register
Trying to save money wherever you can is important to us all. Insurance should be no different. Do not assume that your agent knows everything about you and your vehicle. CarInsurance.com goes out of their way to find all the possible discounts that are available to each customer.
Drivers should take advantage of all discounts that many providers offer, that can significantly reduce the cost of car insurance. Understanding discounts and how they can affect auto insurance premiums can help smart shoppers make better decisions about their coverage and possibly save themselves some money in the process.
Read below to identify possible discounts that could help you save on auto insurance this year. Other than discounts, there may be some other ways for you to save on your insurance premiums. We will go over several discounts that can help with your current situation.
First, there are discounts for Auto Safety features. Certain states will give you discounts for anti-lock breaks. Make sure you know if it is two or four wheel anti-lock break vehicle. Automatic seatbelts and airbags are frequently discounted on your insurance premiums. In most states, a defensive driver class discount may apply. If the principal driver usually 55 years old or older has completed an approved defensive driving class a discount could apply. Keep in mind that most states will only approve this class if it is voluntary meaning that it was not the result of a violation or infraction.
Some insurers will give you a discount for having multiple vehicles. In some cases, this will only apply if you have two or more drivers. If you have a clean driving record, meaning you do not have any tickets, accidents or suspensions in the last three years (some companies require five years) then you could be eligible for a safe driver's discount.
Many companies will reward you with staying with the same insurance company for many years without any accidents reported. They will offer you a renewal discount. It makes sense, you have carried insurance with a company for several years, and have not had an accident, your insurance company likes you and wants to reward and keep your business. Some companies honor you with a discount if you had prior limits on your previous policy. They discount you because they understand you are a better risk.
Conversely, if you do decided to change insurers a proof of prior insurance discount may apply. Most insurers request at least 6 months of consecutive insurance from the previous insurer. If you are a full-time student who meets certain grade requirements and are unmarried and usually under 25 years of age (some states the age is 21) you could be eligible for a good student discount. If you own a home, including condominium, town home, or mobile home, which is used as a principal residence, a discount could apply. Military personnel either currently active or retired from any branch of the US military a discount could apply. If your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft device, a discount could apply.
You could lower the cost of your insurance in other ways.
For people who own older cars, it may not be necessary or cost-effective to protect them with collision and comprehensive coverage. By comparing the book value of your vehicle and the premium that the insurer has offered, you may find that it cost as much for the insurance as it does for the vehicle. If the car is worth less than $2,000, you will probably spend more insuring it than it is worth. The whole idea of driving an older car is to save money, so why not get what is coming to you.
In addition, keep in mind that the type of vehicle you buy could greatly affect your premium. A flashy red sports car is usually going to cost more to insure than a mid sized sedan. This is also true of vehicles that are on the list of most stolen. There are many ways that policyholders can save on their insurance. Knowing more about auto policies and premiums can help consumers take advantage of less obvious discounts while ensuring that they have the appropriate protection for their vehicles. The last way to save is to assume more risk. If you chose higher deductible on your Personal Injury Protection or Comprehensive and collision coverage will lower your premium as well. The deductible is the amount of money you have to pay before your insurance company begins paying the rest.
Understanding how discounts affect your insurance rates is important to save you money.
Visit http://www.carinsurance.com For Discount Car Insurance
About The Author
Tim Register is a representative of CarInsurance.com. You can visit CarInsurance.com at http://www.carinsurance.com or contact them at 1-877-327-8728.
CarInsurance.com's online insurance marketplace gives an opportunity to consumers and to insurance companies. We offer the ability to shop for car insurance online.
Consumers can receive quotes from many insurance companies, in some states you are able to purchase your insurance instantly, online. You don't have to drive your car to buy car insurance. Buy online...anytime!
Tuesday, July 05, 2005
Hybrid Hype and a Small Price Hike
by: Michael Walker
Drive by any car lot in the United States and ask to see the latest hybrid car models. Don’t be stupefied if eight out of ten tell you that they can’t seem to keep them on the lot—that they’re just selling too fast! There is reasoning behind the hype: consumers believe in one (or all) of three things, that they’re going to be getting a better deal once gas prices hit $2.50 a gallon, that they’re not sacrificing performance and that they’re helping the environment.
Let’s first take a look at how these cars are put together. First, we have to understand the concept of “hybrid”. A hybrid car might be defined as any vehicle that uses two or more sources of energy to propel itself. Seems simple enough. Hybrid machinery is all around us in the form of diesel-electric, such as city buses, and nuclear-electric, such as those used on many US submarines. So, the idea and the technology have been around awhile—it’s just now that another energy scare like that of the 1970s, that we start becoming resourceful and a little ingenious. Hybrid power is on the up-rise (and in-demand) only because the two different types of propulsion possibilities (gasoline/diesel and electric) standing alone have proven an ineffective means to get both power and efficiency in one package. But, working together, there is promise.
A hybrid car, in modern terminology, is usually referring to any car that has a combination of an electric and a gasoline (or diesel) motors. These cars use kinetic energy (referred to as regenerative breaking), absorbed by your breaks when you slow down to a stop, to recharge batteries that in turn push the electric motor. All of this is combined into one finely tuned schematic—the result being power to the transmission and propulsion power (i.e. wheel movement).
All hybrids contain a gasoline engine, an electric engine, a generator (mostly on series hybrids), fuel storage container, batteries and a transmission.
There are basically two different types of hybrid engines. The first is a parallel hybrid. This sort of hybrid actually contains both a gasoline and electric motor that both operate independently to propel the car forward. It’s designed to have two power sources working with one goal in mind. In many ways, they are still “connected”.
The second hybrid is often referred to as a series hybrid. In a series hybrid, the gas or diesel powered engine doesn’t connect to the transmission directly, meaning that it doesn’t actually propel the car by itself. It actually works indirectly, powering a generator, which in turn (controlled by computer monitoring systems) either feeds power to the batteries or directly feeds power to an electric motor that connects to the transmission.
As stated above, hybrid buyers are looking for the combination (and compromise) of power and energy that these cars seem to provide. Many gas-powered cars have a lot of horsepower. This is useful for modern driving experiences. No one wants to be doing the minimum 45 mph on the interstate and stopping to “refuel,” as with purely electric motors. Plus, there’s no need to feel like you should have placed your slow-moving reflective magnet on the trunk. However, many gas-powered cars are truly “wasteful” resources because out of those 175 horses, you’ll only have to use less than half that power for everyday driving. We don’t even have to get into the harmful environmental factors of pure gasoline engines. We are just now starting to see the results of our apathetic attitudes on this subject.
The engines in hybrid automobiles are usually much smaller (except in some brand new V-6 models). While this reduces fuel consumption, it means that for the extra “power” that drivers are looking for has to come from somewhere else. That’s where the electric motor and batteries come into play. In some models, sensors detect that the car is in need of extra energy for going up hill, for example. That’s when the “hybrid” half of the engine kicks in. It will do a dandy job of giving the engine that extra oomph or boost that it needs, without using any more gasoline.
Newer hybrid models do a lot of extra tricks so that your car gets as many miles to the gallon as possible. For example, when you’re stopped at a traffic light, another sensor will trigger the gasoline engine to idle down to a complete stop, while the car stays “running” solely on its electric power. Did I mention ingenious?
Since the idea behind the hybrid powered car is reduced fuel consumption without the loss of speed or power, many cars are being designed to move through the streets with the utmost in aerodynamic form; meaning that a hybrid will create less “drag,” simply due to its body structure. Many also use much lighter building materials, reducing weight and pull. Some models even have wheel covers and no mirrors (replaced with cameras and navigation equipment), which saves an enormous amount of energy.
Hybrids don’t seem to be a fad or some social experiment. Consumers and car enthusiasts alike are enjoying what they’re seeing in the market. Everyday it seems a better designed, lighter; more fuel-efficient and powerful hybrid enters. Recently released models are even beating their gas-powered counterparts. One boasts a 255 hp engine with other capabilities such as being able to shut down half the cylinders (without notice) while in motion to conserve fuel and energy.
Hybrid-engineered cars cost a bit more too. Usually the price difference is around 3,000 bucks. And, it may take a few years (depending on gas prices) for you to actually make the savings in fuel worthwhile. However, it’s still better for the environment, and that lingers (and makes it worthwhile) in some consumers’ minds.
And, if you are still one to wholeheartedly grip the stick of your V-8 without budging, you might take into mind that newer hybrid models are gaining on those petal-to-the-metal peelers of yesteryear. Hybrid models are inching nearer to (and even beating!) gas powered cars in 0 to 60 mph road tests.
So, when you decide that a new car might be a viable option in the near future, don’t expect to see too many hybrids in dealers’ lots. You may have to do some across-the-state driving to find a choice. Do some preliminary searching on the Internet and find out what model may benefit you and your lifestyle the most. Keep in mind all that we’ve mentioned and perhaps—in the future—you’ll have no other choice than a hybrid, which at this time seems to be by far the best choice around.
About The Author
Michael Walker is a freelance author providing tips and hints on engine related topics in his website http://www.enginestar.com/, including: http://www.enginestar.com/jdm-engines.html and http://www.enginestar.com/used-nissan-engines.html. His articles are a valuable source of information for the auto enthusiast.
Drive by any car lot in the United States and ask to see the latest hybrid car models. Don’t be stupefied if eight out of ten tell you that they can’t seem to keep them on the lot—that they’re just selling too fast! There is reasoning behind the hype: consumers believe in one (or all) of three things, that they’re going to be getting a better deal once gas prices hit $2.50 a gallon, that they’re not sacrificing performance and that they’re helping the environment.
Let’s first take a look at how these cars are put together. First, we have to understand the concept of “hybrid”. A hybrid car might be defined as any vehicle that uses two or more sources of energy to propel itself. Seems simple enough. Hybrid machinery is all around us in the form of diesel-electric, such as city buses, and nuclear-electric, such as those used on many US submarines. So, the idea and the technology have been around awhile—it’s just now that another energy scare like that of the 1970s, that we start becoming resourceful and a little ingenious. Hybrid power is on the up-rise (and in-demand) only because the two different types of propulsion possibilities (gasoline/diesel and electric) standing alone have proven an ineffective means to get both power and efficiency in one package. But, working together, there is promise.
A hybrid car, in modern terminology, is usually referring to any car that has a combination of an electric and a gasoline (or diesel) motors. These cars use kinetic energy (referred to as regenerative breaking), absorbed by your breaks when you slow down to a stop, to recharge batteries that in turn push the electric motor. All of this is combined into one finely tuned schematic—the result being power to the transmission and propulsion power (i.e. wheel movement).
All hybrids contain a gasoline engine, an electric engine, a generator (mostly on series hybrids), fuel storage container, batteries and a transmission.
There are basically two different types of hybrid engines. The first is a parallel hybrid. This sort of hybrid actually contains both a gasoline and electric motor that both operate independently to propel the car forward. It’s designed to have two power sources working with one goal in mind. In many ways, they are still “connected”.
The second hybrid is often referred to as a series hybrid. In a series hybrid, the gas or diesel powered engine doesn’t connect to the transmission directly, meaning that it doesn’t actually propel the car by itself. It actually works indirectly, powering a generator, which in turn (controlled by computer monitoring systems) either feeds power to the batteries or directly feeds power to an electric motor that connects to the transmission.
As stated above, hybrid buyers are looking for the combination (and compromise) of power and energy that these cars seem to provide. Many gas-powered cars have a lot of horsepower. This is useful for modern driving experiences. No one wants to be doing the minimum 45 mph on the interstate and stopping to “refuel,” as with purely electric motors. Plus, there’s no need to feel like you should have placed your slow-moving reflective magnet on the trunk. However, many gas-powered cars are truly “wasteful” resources because out of those 175 horses, you’ll only have to use less than half that power for everyday driving. We don’t even have to get into the harmful environmental factors of pure gasoline engines. We are just now starting to see the results of our apathetic attitudes on this subject.
The engines in hybrid automobiles are usually much smaller (except in some brand new V-6 models). While this reduces fuel consumption, it means that for the extra “power” that drivers are looking for has to come from somewhere else. That’s where the electric motor and batteries come into play. In some models, sensors detect that the car is in need of extra energy for going up hill, for example. That’s when the “hybrid” half of the engine kicks in. It will do a dandy job of giving the engine that extra oomph or boost that it needs, without using any more gasoline.
Newer hybrid models do a lot of extra tricks so that your car gets as many miles to the gallon as possible. For example, when you’re stopped at a traffic light, another sensor will trigger the gasoline engine to idle down to a complete stop, while the car stays “running” solely on its electric power. Did I mention ingenious?
Since the idea behind the hybrid powered car is reduced fuel consumption without the loss of speed or power, many cars are being designed to move through the streets with the utmost in aerodynamic form; meaning that a hybrid will create less “drag,” simply due to its body structure. Many also use much lighter building materials, reducing weight and pull. Some models even have wheel covers and no mirrors (replaced with cameras and navigation equipment), which saves an enormous amount of energy.
Hybrids don’t seem to be a fad or some social experiment. Consumers and car enthusiasts alike are enjoying what they’re seeing in the market. Everyday it seems a better designed, lighter; more fuel-efficient and powerful hybrid enters. Recently released models are even beating their gas-powered counterparts. One boasts a 255 hp engine with other capabilities such as being able to shut down half the cylinders (without notice) while in motion to conserve fuel and energy.
Hybrid-engineered cars cost a bit more too. Usually the price difference is around 3,000 bucks. And, it may take a few years (depending on gas prices) for you to actually make the savings in fuel worthwhile. However, it’s still better for the environment, and that lingers (and makes it worthwhile) in some consumers’ minds.
And, if you are still one to wholeheartedly grip the stick of your V-8 without budging, you might take into mind that newer hybrid models are gaining on those petal-to-the-metal peelers of yesteryear. Hybrid models are inching nearer to (and even beating!) gas powered cars in 0 to 60 mph road tests.
So, when you decide that a new car might be a viable option in the near future, don’t expect to see too many hybrids in dealers’ lots. You may have to do some across-the-state driving to find a choice. Do some preliminary searching on the Internet and find out what model may benefit you and your lifestyle the most. Keep in mind all that we’ve mentioned and perhaps—in the future—you’ll have no other choice than a hybrid, which at this time seems to be by far the best choice around.
About The Author
Michael Walker is a freelance author providing tips and hints on engine related topics in his website http://www.enginestar.com/, including: http://www.enginestar.com/jdm-engines.html and http://www.enginestar.com/used-nissan-engines.html. His articles are a valuable source of information for the auto enthusiast.
Alternative Fuel Vehicles
Consider the Alternatives: By Pierre Schexneider M. Ed.
Alternative Fueled Vehicles and Alternative Vehicle Fuels
Driving a car fueled by something other than gasoline or diesel
fuel is no longer the stuff of science fiction. In addition to
conventional gasoline and diesel fuel, reformulated - cleaner -
gasoline and alternative fuels now are sold in many parts of the
country. Alternative fuels such as methanol, ethanol, compressed
natural gas, liquefied petroleum gas, and electricity produce
fewer tail pipe pollutants than conventional gasoline and diesel
fuel. Using them could improve our air quality.
In 1992, Congress passed the Energy Policy Act to promote the
use of alternative fuels. For example, the law requires owners
of fleet vehicles to purchase a certain number of alternative
fueled vehicles. Congress also directed the Federal Trade
Commission (FTC) to issue labeling requirements for alternative
fuels and alternative fueled vehicles. Two FTC Rules - the
Alternative Fuels and Vehicles (AFV) Rule and the Fuel Rating
Rule - require fuel dispensers and alternative fueled vehicles
to be labeled with information to help consumers make
knowledgeable decisions when it comes to filling up or buying a
vehicle. The AFV Rule applies to new and used alternative fueled
vehicles that are sold to consumers or leased to consumers for a
minimum of 120 days. This Article explains the labels you'll see
on alternative fueled vehicles and alternative fuel dispensers,
and suggests several important factors to consider as you
investigate the options.
Alternative Fueled Vehicles:
AFVs are vehicles that operate on alternative fuels, such as
methanol, ethanol, compressed natural gas, liquefied petroleum
gas, electricity, and others designated by the U.S. Department
of Energy. Some AFVs can run on conventional fuels, such as
gasoline, and alternative fuels. They are called dual-fueled
vehicles.
The required labels must be placed in plain view on the surface
of all new and used AFVs. The labels on new AFVs must include
the vehicle's cruising range as estimated by the manufacturer
and its environmental impact, as well as general descriptive
information. It's important to know how many miles your new AFV
will travel on a supply of fuel because, gallon for gallon, some
AFVs don't travel as far as gasoline-powered vehicles. The
label's description of the Environmental Protection Agency's
(EPA) emission standard for the vehicle tells you to what extent
the vehicle produces emissions. If a vehicle meets an EPA
emissions standard, a box on the label will be marked and a
caret (^) will be placed above the particular vehicle's
certification standard. The label shows the levels of emissions
standards in a series of boxes that range from a "Tier l"
vehicle - one with more emissions - to a "ZEV" - a zero
emissions vehicle. The labels on new and used AFVs also advise
consumers to consider the following items before buying or
leasing an AFV.
Fuel type. Ask what kind of fuel powers the vehicle.
Operating costs. Fuel and maintenance costs for AFVs may differ
from gasoline or diesel-fueled vehicles.
Performance/convenience. Vehicles powered by different fuels
vary in their ability to start when they are cold; their
acceleration rates; the time it takes to completely refill the
vehicle's tank; and how they are refueled.
Fuel availability. Find out whether refueling or recharging
facilities are available in your area for the fuel the vehicle
uses.
Energy security/renewability. Consider where and how the fuel
powering the vehicle is produced so you can anticipate long-term
fuel availability at a reasonable price.
These labels also must include additional sources of information
from the federal government: The Department of Energy maintains
a toll-free National Alternative Fuels Hotline to answer
questions about alternative fuels, give information about the
availability of alternative fuels in a particular area, and
suggest more sources of information about alternative fuels and
alternative fueled vehicles. The National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration's toll-free hotline offers information about
safety related automobile issues.
In addition, because all vehicles affect the environment
directly (tailpipe emissions) and indirectly (how the fuel is
produced and brought to market), the labels on used AFVs advise
consumers to compare the environmental costs of driving an AFV
to driving a gasoline-powered vehicle.
Alternative Fuels: Among the fuels covered by the Fuel Rating
Rule and the Alternative Fuels and Vehicles Rule are methanol,
ethanol, natural gas, liquefied petroleum gases, hydrogen, coal
derived liquid fuels, and electricity. For example, methanol is
an odorless, clear liquid produced from natural gas, coal, or
biomass resources, such as crop and forest residues. It usually
is sold as a blend of 85 percent methanol and 15 percent
gasoline. Ethanol, a liquid produced from grain or agricultural
waste, usually is sold as a blend of 85 percent denatured
ethanol and 15 percent gasoline. The labels for these fuels are
orange to distinguish them from gasoline octane labels, which
are yellow. They must be placed on the fuel dispenser so that
they are fully visible to consumers.
Gasoline labels tell you the octane rating. Alternative fuel
labels describe the fuel and its principal component(s). The
rating for an alternative fuel - other than electricity - is the
commonly used name of the fuel and the amount of its principal
component, expressed as a minimum percentage. For electric
vehicle fuel dispensing systems, the fuel rating is a common
identifier - such as electricity - and the system's kilowatt
capacity, voltage, whether the voltage is alternating or direct
current, amperage, and whether the system is conductive or
inductive.
Consider the Alternatives: Why consider switching to alternative
fueled vehicles or alternative fuels? According to the
Department of Energy, emissions from the 200 million cars and
trucks on U.S. roads - mostly hydrocarbons, nitrogen oxides, and
carbon monoxide - account for about 50 percent of all air
pollution and more than 80 percent of urban air pollution.
Driving alternative fueled vehicles could reduce the level of
vehicle emissions, and choosing domestically produced
alternative fuels - instead of imported oil - could help reduce
the trade deficit, create jobs, and promote economic activity.
At the same time, you should be aware that some alternative
fuels have a lower energy content than gasoline. On a gallon for
gallon basis, some do not allow consumers to travel as many
miles as they could in a vehicle powered with gasoline or diesel
fuel. In addition, an AFV may cost more than a comparable
gasoline-powered vehicle.
The good news is that you can help reduce pollution from vehicle
emissions even if you don't choose an AFV or alternative fuel.
If you live or work in an area where air pollution is a
continuing problem, you may be able to find reformulated
gasoline at local service stations. Reformulated gasoline is
conventional gasoline with added oxygen. It burns more cleanly
than conventional gasoline. It is required in areas with the
most serious levels of ozone air pollution and is being used by
choice in others.
For Information on gas saving tips visit:
About the author:
Pierre Schexneider is president of The Schexneider Group, LLC an
E-commerce consulting business. As a consultant his research
abilities have afforded him many opportunities to expand his
knowledge base. For gas saving tips please visit:
Alternative Fueled Vehicles and Alternative Vehicle Fuels
Driving a car fueled by something other than gasoline or diesel
fuel is no longer the stuff of science fiction. In addition to
conventional gasoline and diesel fuel, reformulated - cleaner -
gasoline and alternative fuels now are sold in many parts of the
country. Alternative fuels such as methanol, ethanol, compressed
natural gas, liquefied petroleum gas, and electricity produce
fewer tail pipe pollutants than conventional gasoline and diesel
fuel. Using them could improve our air quality.
In 1992, Congress passed the Energy Policy Act to promote the
use of alternative fuels. For example, the law requires owners
of fleet vehicles to purchase a certain number of alternative
fueled vehicles. Congress also directed the Federal Trade
Commission (FTC) to issue labeling requirements for alternative
fuels and alternative fueled vehicles. Two FTC Rules - the
Alternative Fuels and Vehicles (AFV) Rule and the Fuel Rating
Rule - require fuel dispensers and alternative fueled vehicles
to be labeled with information to help consumers make
knowledgeable decisions when it comes to filling up or buying a
vehicle. The AFV Rule applies to new and used alternative fueled
vehicles that are sold to consumers or leased to consumers for a
minimum of 120 days. This Article explains the labels you'll see
on alternative fueled vehicles and alternative fuel dispensers,
and suggests several important factors to consider as you
investigate the options.
Alternative Fueled Vehicles:
AFVs are vehicles that operate on alternative fuels, such as
methanol, ethanol, compressed natural gas, liquefied petroleum
gas, electricity, and others designated by the U.S. Department
of Energy. Some AFVs can run on conventional fuels, such as
gasoline, and alternative fuels. They are called dual-fueled
vehicles.
The required labels must be placed in plain view on the surface
of all new and used AFVs. The labels on new AFVs must include
the vehicle's cruising range as estimated by the manufacturer
and its environmental impact, as well as general descriptive
information. It's important to know how many miles your new AFV
will travel on a supply of fuel because, gallon for gallon, some
AFVs don't travel as far as gasoline-powered vehicles. The
label's description of the Environmental Protection Agency's
(EPA) emission standard for the vehicle tells you to what extent
the vehicle produces emissions. If a vehicle meets an EPA
emissions standard, a box on the label will be marked and a
caret (^) will be placed above the particular vehicle's
certification standard. The label shows the levels of emissions
standards in a series of boxes that range from a "Tier l"
vehicle - one with more emissions - to a "ZEV" - a zero
emissions vehicle. The labels on new and used AFVs also advise
consumers to consider the following items before buying or
leasing an AFV.
Fuel type. Ask what kind of fuel powers the vehicle.
Operating costs. Fuel and maintenance costs for AFVs may differ
from gasoline or diesel-fueled vehicles.
Performance/convenience. Vehicles powered by different fuels
vary in their ability to start when they are cold; their
acceleration rates; the time it takes to completely refill the
vehicle's tank; and how they are refueled.
Fuel availability. Find out whether refueling or recharging
facilities are available in your area for the fuel the vehicle
uses.
Energy security/renewability. Consider where and how the fuel
powering the vehicle is produced so you can anticipate long-term
fuel availability at a reasonable price.
These labels also must include additional sources of information
from the federal government: The Department of Energy maintains
a toll-free National Alternative Fuels Hotline to answer
questions about alternative fuels, give information about the
availability of alternative fuels in a particular area, and
suggest more sources of information about alternative fuels and
alternative fueled vehicles. The National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration's toll-free hotline offers information about
safety related automobile issues.
In addition, because all vehicles affect the environment
directly (tailpipe emissions) and indirectly (how the fuel is
produced and brought to market), the labels on used AFVs advise
consumers to compare the environmental costs of driving an AFV
to driving a gasoline-powered vehicle.
Alternative Fuels: Among the fuels covered by the Fuel Rating
Rule and the Alternative Fuels and Vehicles Rule are methanol,
ethanol, natural gas, liquefied petroleum gases, hydrogen, coal
derived liquid fuels, and electricity. For example, methanol is
an odorless, clear liquid produced from natural gas, coal, or
biomass resources, such as crop and forest residues. It usually
is sold as a blend of 85 percent methanol and 15 percent
gasoline. Ethanol, a liquid produced from grain or agricultural
waste, usually is sold as a blend of 85 percent denatured
ethanol and 15 percent gasoline. The labels for these fuels are
orange to distinguish them from gasoline octane labels, which
are yellow. They must be placed on the fuel dispenser so that
they are fully visible to consumers.
Gasoline labels tell you the octane rating. Alternative fuel
labels describe the fuel and its principal component(s). The
rating for an alternative fuel - other than electricity - is the
commonly used name of the fuel and the amount of its principal
component, expressed as a minimum percentage. For electric
vehicle fuel dispensing systems, the fuel rating is a common
identifier - such as electricity - and the system's kilowatt
capacity, voltage, whether the voltage is alternating or direct
current, amperage, and whether the system is conductive or
inductive.
Consider the Alternatives: Why consider switching to alternative
fueled vehicles or alternative fuels? According to the
Department of Energy, emissions from the 200 million cars and
trucks on U.S. roads - mostly hydrocarbons, nitrogen oxides, and
carbon monoxide - account for about 50 percent of all air
pollution and more than 80 percent of urban air pollution.
Driving alternative fueled vehicles could reduce the level of
vehicle emissions, and choosing domestically produced
alternative fuels - instead of imported oil - could help reduce
the trade deficit, create jobs, and promote economic activity.
At the same time, you should be aware that some alternative
fuels have a lower energy content than gasoline. On a gallon for
gallon basis, some do not allow consumers to travel as many
miles as they could in a vehicle powered with gasoline or diesel
fuel. In addition, an AFV may cost more than a comparable
gasoline-powered vehicle.
The good news is that you can help reduce pollution from vehicle
emissions even if you don't choose an AFV or alternative fuel.
If you live or work in an area where air pollution is a
continuing problem, you may be able to find reformulated
gasoline at local service stations. Reformulated gasoline is
conventional gasoline with added oxygen. It burns more cleanly
than conventional gasoline. It is required in areas with the
most serious levels of ozone air pollution and is being used by
choice in others.
For Information on gas saving tips visit:
About the author:
Pierre Schexneider is president of The Schexneider Group, LLC an
E-commerce consulting business. As a consultant his research
abilities have afforded him many opportunities to expand his
knowledge base. For gas saving tips please visit:
Monday, July 04, 2005
Top 10 Tips You Must Know When Buying a Car
By: Alex Fir
1. You should purchase your new car at or around Christmas time
because with everybody buying their Christmas presents, not many
of them are looking to buy a new car, and it forces dealerships
to up their sales strategies. Salesmen are more willing to
haggle down to your prices to close the deal.
2. You can also get a good deal from July to October because
that is the time of year when dealerships are trying to get rid
of their inventory to make way for the new models.
3. Purchasing a car online is becoming a great way to get a new
car. Just wait for good rebates and incentives online and shop
around. Print out your information from the best quotes and
bring it to the dealer that you are most willing to work with.
Bringing in lower quotes from another company might be your best
bet in getting a good deal.
4. You should visit FightingChance.com if you are hoping to find
new car prices, dealer incentives, and the best rebate offers.
This site is the first place that you should go for great advice
on buying a car. It's even more informative than the Kelley Blue
book. This program for buying new cars can literally save you
thousands of dollars.
5. A good place to start when going into a dealership is to
bring a copy of your credit score with you. It can lower your
interest rates on your car loan. Your car dealer should not know
more about you than you do.
6. You can avoid a common scam that dealerships pull. You will
often hear that your financing fell through and that you have to
respond by paying more money on your loan. Don't believe it.
It's another reason for you to get a copy of your credit score.
7. Another common scam by dealership salesmen is for them to
tell you that they have found you a lower rate, but that they
want you to re-sign your loan papers. Usually, that is a
downright lie. Once they pull up your financing information,
they have the upper hand if you don't know the details about
your credit information. You can get a copy of your credit
information online at equifax.com for about $10-$15. It's better
to pay $15 now than thousands later.
8. Don't bring in a car for trade in if you still owe money on
it. The dealership rarely pays the rest of the loan on time
which will result in you having to pay a great deal of late fees
to the bank. If you do decide to bring a car in that you owe
money on, get it in writing from the dealership that they will
pay the balance on the car within 10 days.
9. Sometimes a dealership may not have all of your options and
must order the car directly from the dealership. If this happens
they will often ask you to pay $500-$1000 for a deposit on the
car. Try not to pay more than $500 and be sure to pay with a
credit card because sometimes the dealership will tell you that
there was a price increase on the vehicle and will want more
money. If you pay with a credit card you have room to dispute
the amount being taken from you. If you pay by check, you can
just consider the money gone.
10. You should never buy a car when you are in desperate need
for one because a dealer will see that and take advantage. You
should never wait until an old car is dead before searching for
a new one because you should give yourself time to shop around
for one and get the best deal possible. Desperation often clouds
your judgment.
About the author:
Are you planning to buy a car? Visit Auto Loans Center
for the latest news and information on auto loans.
1. You should purchase your new car at or around Christmas time
because with everybody buying their Christmas presents, not many
of them are looking to buy a new car, and it forces dealerships
to up their sales strategies. Salesmen are more willing to
haggle down to your prices to close the deal.
2. You can also get a good deal from July to October because
that is the time of year when dealerships are trying to get rid
of their inventory to make way for the new models.
3. Purchasing a car online is becoming a great way to get a new
car. Just wait for good rebates and incentives online and shop
around. Print out your information from the best quotes and
bring it to the dealer that you are most willing to work with.
Bringing in lower quotes from another company might be your best
bet in getting a good deal.
4. You should visit FightingChance.com if you are hoping to find
new car prices, dealer incentives, and the best rebate offers.
This site is the first place that you should go for great advice
on buying a car. It's even more informative than the Kelley Blue
book. This program for buying new cars can literally save you
thousands of dollars.
5. A good place to start when going into a dealership is to
bring a copy of your credit score with you. It can lower your
interest rates on your car loan. Your car dealer should not know
more about you than you do.
6. You can avoid a common scam that dealerships pull. You will
often hear that your financing fell through and that you have to
respond by paying more money on your loan. Don't believe it.
It's another reason for you to get a copy of your credit score.
7. Another common scam by dealership salesmen is for them to
tell you that they have found you a lower rate, but that they
want you to re-sign your loan papers. Usually, that is a
downright lie. Once they pull up your financing information,
they have the upper hand if you don't know the details about
your credit information. You can get a copy of your credit
information online at equifax.com for about $10-$15. It's better
to pay $15 now than thousands later.
8. Don't bring in a car for trade in if you still owe money on
it. The dealership rarely pays the rest of the loan on time
which will result in you having to pay a great deal of late fees
to the bank. If you do decide to bring a car in that you owe
money on, get it in writing from the dealership that they will
pay the balance on the car within 10 days.
9. Sometimes a dealership may not have all of your options and
must order the car directly from the dealership. If this happens
they will often ask you to pay $500-$1000 for a deposit on the
car. Try not to pay more than $500 and be sure to pay with a
credit card because sometimes the dealership will tell you that
there was a price increase on the vehicle and will want more
money. If you pay with a credit card you have room to dispute
the amount being taken from you. If you pay by check, you can
just consider the money gone.
10. You should never buy a car when you are in desperate need
for one because a dealer will see that and take advantage. You
should never wait until an old car is dead before searching for
a new one because you should give yourself time to shop around
for one and get the best deal possible. Desperation often clouds
your judgment.
About the author:
Are you planning to buy a car? Visit Auto Loans Center
for the latest news and information on auto loans.
Friday, July 01, 2005
Batteries - How Do You Know You'll Have the Juice When You Need
By: Brendon Turner
Modern vehicles make a lot of demands upon their batteries. We
expect our batteries to be reliable, have a large reserve
capacity and a long life span, and be maintenance-free. In
short, once a battery has been installed, we no longer want to
think about it. Here's some tips on how to choose a battery that
will serve you well.
For automotive applications, there are basically three types of
batteries: conventional, maintenance-free, and recombination.
Conventional Batteries
A 12-volt automotive battery contains six cells. In each cell is
a series of alternating positive and negative plates, between
which are isolator or separator plates to keep them apart. All
the negative plates in the battery are connected, as are all the
positive plates. Each plate has a grid construction, and to this
grid, the plate's active material - sponge lead - is bonded. The
plates in each. cell are covered with a solution of distilled
water and sulfuric acid (electrolyte). As the battery discharges
(supplies electricity), the acid in the electrolyte reacts with
the active material in the battery plates, forming lead sulfate
and weakening the electrolyte solution. Conversely, as the
battery is charged, the acid is returned to the solution,
thereby strengthening it, and the used portion of the lead
sulfate is converted back into active material in the plates.
During this process, hydrogen and oxygen molecules are
off-gassed out of the electrolyte, which is why a conventional
battery often needs topping up with distilled water. The charge
and discharge cycle also means that some lead sloughs off the
plates. Over time, this builds up in the bottom of the case,
reducing the overall capacity of the battery fluid. When enough
material builds up, the plates will short out, and you're stuck
with a dead battery.
Maintenance-Free Batteries
Closed (maintenance-free) batteries are essentially the same as
conventional batteries, except that they contain extra
electrolytes in the partially sealed case. However, over time,
this excess fluid is used up as fluid slowly off-gases hydrogen
and oxygen molecules through the vents. Because these batteries
cannot usually be topped off, once the plates begin to be
exposed, the battery's life span is over. Usually, this takes a
long period of time, which is why these batteries often last
longer than conventional batteries. However, in situations where
frequent, rapid charge/discharge occurs (such as when running a
winch or powerful spotlight without running the engine), a
maintenance-free battery may not outlast a conventional one.
Another type of maintenance-free battery is the gel-type battery
While these batteries cannot leak or spill fluid and can be
installed at odd angles, they do have a weakness. Using
electrolyte gel necessitates the use of thinner plates so that
adequate dispersion of the acid through the active material
occurs. Since gel batteries are also sealed, they cannot be
topped off and care must be taken when charging so they don't
overcharge and gas-off, which will result in excessive sloughing
of the plates, premature reduction in electrolytes, and eventual
battery failure. This means that during the harsh vibrations
associated with trail riding, a marginal gel battery can fail
completely as the plates literally fall apart.
Recombination Batteries
The recombination battery is overall the best battery for
off-road and heavy-duty use. They're called recombination
because they recombine the gas formed during charging,
channeling it into the separators so it doesn't vent out of the
battery and reclaiming the water to keep electrolyte
concentration at optimum. They are completely sealed (except for
a reseating pressure-relief vent) and require no topping off of
fluids. Recombination batteries can use either liquid or
gel-type electrolytes and are different from other batteries
because the acid is bound into the separators and pure lead can
be used in the plates. Because of the purity of the materials
used, there is no sloughing and the plates in these batteries
can be very tightly packed. The result is a powerful, compact
battery with quicker charging time, lower internal resistance
than conventional or maintenance-free batteries, and a longer
life span. In fact, for a conventional battery to deliver the
same amount of starting power as a recombination battery, it
would have to be two or three times larger. Because they contain
no liquid as such, recombination batteries can be mounted in any
position, will work when the case is damaged, and won't leak in
a rollover. In short, for off-road use, they are just about the
perfect battery.
How Batteries Are Rated
Battery ratings are a determination of how much power a battery
can produce under marginal conditions. There are a number of
ways to determine a battery's output, but ratings by ampere hour
(Ah), cold-cranking amperes (CCA), and reserve capacity are the
most common.
Ampere hours are determined by the SAE 20 test. This test is
designed to show the amount of current that can be drawn from a
battery for 20 hours without the voltage dropping below 1.75
volts per cell. In real-world terms, this means that a healthy
battery should be capable of keeping the parking lights lit for
20 hours. For starting your truck, Ah doesn't mean much.
However, for powering accessories without the engine running,
this can be an important measurement.
Cold-cranking amperes or CCA is the unit of measurement that
generally determines a battery's ability to start your engine.
CCA is a measurement of the worst conditions under which a
battery can be expected to deliver current, and it tests how
much current in amperes a battery can deliver under extreme
cold. According to the American SAE standard, CCA is determined
by measuring how much current can be delivered in amperes for 30
seconds at -18 degrees C with a final voltage of 7.2 volts per
cell or higher.
Reserve capacity is an important measurement for the total
capacity of the battery and shows how long a battery can keep
the engine running if the alternator/generator fails. Reserve
capacity of a battery is measured in minutes at room temperature
(approximately 70 degrees F). During this test, 25 amperes is
drawn from the battery for as long as the voltage does not drop
below 10.5 volts. For off-road use, it's a good idea to make
sure any battery you purchase has a reserve capacity of at least
120 minutes.
Reserve capacity is also important for those times when you need
to run a radio, spotlight, winch, or other electrical accessory
without running the engine.
A Batteries Two Enemies
Although just about all modem batteries are pretty reliable,
there are two enemies that can grind even a brand-new battery to
a halt - extreme cold and extreme heat. Batteries are at their
best with internal temperatures (not ambient) above 50 degrees F
and below 105 degrees F. Below and above this range, problems
can develop, and a dead, damaged, or . useless battery can be
the result.
We've all noticed that under extremely cold conditions (below
freezing), the battery will turn over the starter motor slowly,
if at all. This is because when the internal temperature of the
battery gets below the optimum range, the chemical reaction
inside the battery happens more slowly, and for every 10-degree
drop below freezing, the time that the chemical reaction takes
doubles. Because of this increased resistance, the voltage in
the battery drops and cannot turn over the engine.
Heat can also have an adverse effect on your battery's overall
health. Battery power is reduced when it's subjected to
excessive temperatures, but the problem may not be immediately
noticed until the temperature drops. At higher temperatures, the
chemical reaction within the battery is more rapid. The battery
can produce more energy more quickly. This is good, right?
Wrong. The higher rate of energy production results in an
increase in off gassing; the water in the battery is vented out
as hydrogen and oxygen molecules and the rate of internal
corrosion, or sloughing, increases. This can result in a short
in one or more cells that is not noticed until cold weather
diminishes the overall ability of the battery.
What to Buy
When it comes to batteries for automotive use, there is no such
thing as a perfect battery. Any battery can fail if it is
neglected, constantly overloaded, or overcharged. The important
thing to remember is to get the right battery for your needs,
one that is rated for your vehicle and all the accessories you
use. Generally, this means a high Ah, high CCA, and high reserve
capacity. Also, make sure you buy a quality unit. Don't be
fooled by the low price of the budget shops. Batteries sold in
the no-name-battery discount stores often are poorly assembled
and use inferior materials in the plates and separators.
Name-brand batteries, such as AC-Delco, Sears DieHard, Exide,
Interstate, Optima, and others, are manufactured to the highest
standards, delivering high reliability combined with long life.
For off-road use, however, we feel that the recombination
battery is the best overall, since it delivers high output,
needs no maintenance, holds up well to the rigors of off-road
driving, and has a quick recharge rate, as well as a long life
span. It is a particularly useful battery for the off-roader
because it has no liquid to leak out and can be mounted in any
position (even upside down). Because of this, it won't corrode
battery trays or cables and is safe in a collision. You can
actually shoot a 45-caliber bullet through the battery casing
and it will still crank at full power. Try that with a
conventional battery, and you have a leaking mess that will at
best produce minimal voltage.
Although recombination batteries are sold under various brand
names, Optima's 800U is the original and also the only battery
available with both top posts and side terminals, a feature that
makes it especially well suited for specialized installations
and powering accessories and where there is installation room
for only one battery Since we also run a winch and driving
lights from the starting battery, it has to be a powerful one.
The 800 CCA and 120 minutes of reserve capacity the Optima
offers means we can rely on the unit as a power source for
lights and winch use when the engine is down, without
sacrificing starting ability. Additionally, the side terminals
make it easy to power the winch and other accessories directly
off the battery without disconnecting the main power cables and
disabling the vehicle's computer. This makes for a clean
installation without a lot of cable clutter at the main battery
posts, which is especially important when there's limited space
around the battery top.
About the author:
Visit AutomotiveGazette.com
- The Automotive Gazette weekly edition of car care articles,
automotive news and information on automotive repair for those
of us not adept at automotive troubleshooting.
Modern vehicles make a lot of demands upon their batteries. We
expect our batteries to be reliable, have a large reserve
capacity and a long life span, and be maintenance-free. In
short, once a battery has been installed, we no longer want to
think about it. Here's some tips on how to choose a battery that
will serve you well.
For automotive applications, there are basically three types of
batteries: conventional, maintenance-free, and recombination.
Conventional Batteries
A 12-volt automotive battery contains six cells. In each cell is
a series of alternating positive and negative plates, between
which are isolator or separator plates to keep them apart. All
the negative plates in the battery are connected, as are all the
positive plates. Each plate has a grid construction, and to this
grid, the plate's active material - sponge lead - is bonded. The
plates in each. cell are covered with a solution of distilled
water and sulfuric acid (electrolyte). As the battery discharges
(supplies electricity), the acid in the electrolyte reacts with
the active material in the battery plates, forming lead sulfate
and weakening the electrolyte solution. Conversely, as the
battery is charged, the acid is returned to the solution,
thereby strengthening it, and the used portion of the lead
sulfate is converted back into active material in the plates.
During this process, hydrogen and oxygen molecules are
off-gassed out of the electrolyte, which is why a conventional
battery often needs topping up with distilled water. The charge
and discharge cycle also means that some lead sloughs off the
plates. Over time, this builds up in the bottom of the case,
reducing the overall capacity of the battery fluid. When enough
material builds up, the plates will short out, and you're stuck
with a dead battery.
Maintenance-Free Batteries
Closed (maintenance-free) batteries are essentially the same as
conventional batteries, except that they contain extra
electrolytes in the partially sealed case. However, over time,
this excess fluid is used up as fluid slowly off-gases hydrogen
and oxygen molecules through the vents. Because these batteries
cannot usually be topped off, once the plates begin to be
exposed, the battery's life span is over. Usually, this takes a
long period of time, which is why these batteries often last
longer than conventional batteries. However, in situations where
frequent, rapid charge/discharge occurs (such as when running a
winch or powerful spotlight without running the engine), a
maintenance-free battery may not outlast a conventional one.
Another type of maintenance-free battery is the gel-type battery
While these batteries cannot leak or spill fluid and can be
installed at odd angles, they do have a weakness. Using
electrolyte gel necessitates the use of thinner plates so that
adequate dispersion of the acid through the active material
occurs. Since gel batteries are also sealed, they cannot be
topped off and care must be taken when charging so they don't
overcharge and gas-off, which will result in excessive sloughing
of the plates, premature reduction in electrolytes, and eventual
battery failure. This means that during the harsh vibrations
associated with trail riding, a marginal gel battery can fail
completely as the plates literally fall apart.
Recombination Batteries
The recombination battery is overall the best battery for
off-road and heavy-duty use. They're called recombination
because they recombine the gas formed during charging,
channeling it into the separators so it doesn't vent out of the
battery and reclaiming the water to keep electrolyte
concentration at optimum. They are completely sealed (except for
a reseating pressure-relief vent) and require no topping off of
fluids. Recombination batteries can use either liquid or
gel-type electrolytes and are different from other batteries
because the acid is bound into the separators and pure lead can
be used in the plates. Because of the purity of the materials
used, there is no sloughing and the plates in these batteries
can be very tightly packed. The result is a powerful, compact
battery with quicker charging time, lower internal resistance
than conventional or maintenance-free batteries, and a longer
life span. In fact, for a conventional battery to deliver the
same amount of starting power as a recombination battery, it
would have to be two or three times larger. Because they contain
no liquid as such, recombination batteries can be mounted in any
position, will work when the case is damaged, and won't leak in
a rollover. In short, for off-road use, they are just about the
perfect battery.
How Batteries Are Rated
Battery ratings are a determination of how much power a battery
can produce under marginal conditions. There are a number of
ways to determine a battery's output, but ratings by ampere hour
(Ah), cold-cranking amperes (CCA), and reserve capacity are the
most common.
Ampere hours are determined by the SAE 20 test. This test is
designed to show the amount of current that can be drawn from a
battery for 20 hours without the voltage dropping below 1.75
volts per cell. In real-world terms, this means that a healthy
battery should be capable of keeping the parking lights lit for
20 hours. For starting your truck, Ah doesn't mean much.
However, for powering accessories without the engine running,
this can be an important measurement.
Cold-cranking amperes or CCA is the unit of measurement that
generally determines a battery's ability to start your engine.
CCA is a measurement of the worst conditions under which a
battery can be expected to deliver current, and it tests how
much current in amperes a battery can deliver under extreme
cold. According to the American SAE standard, CCA is determined
by measuring how much current can be delivered in amperes for 30
seconds at -18 degrees C with a final voltage of 7.2 volts per
cell or higher.
Reserve capacity is an important measurement for the total
capacity of the battery and shows how long a battery can keep
the engine running if the alternator/generator fails. Reserve
capacity of a battery is measured in minutes at room temperature
(approximately 70 degrees F). During this test, 25 amperes is
drawn from the battery for as long as the voltage does not drop
below 10.5 volts. For off-road use, it's a good idea to make
sure any battery you purchase has a reserve capacity of at least
120 minutes.
Reserve capacity is also important for those times when you need
to run a radio, spotlight, winch, or other electrical accessory
without running the engine.
A Batteries Two Enemies
Although just about all modem batteries are pretty reliable,
there are two enemies that can grind even a brand-new battery to
a halt - extreme cold and extreme heat. Batteries are at their
best with internal temperatures (not ambient) above 50 degrees F
and below 105 degrees F. Below and above this range, problems
can develop, and a dead, damaged, or . useless battery can be
the result.
We've all noticed that under extremely cold conditions (below
freezing), the battery will turn over the starter motor slowly,
if at all. This is because when the internal temperature of the
battery gets below the optimum range, the chemical reaction
inside the battery happens more slowly, and for every 10-degree
drop below freezing, the time that the chemical reaction takes
doubles. Because of this increased resistance, the voltage in
the battery drops and cannot turn over the engine.
Heat can also have an adverse effect on your battery's overall
health. Battery power is reduced when it's subjected to
excessive temperatures, but the problem may not be immediately
noticed until the temperature drops. At higher temperatures, the
chemical reaction within the battery is more rapid. The battery
can produce more energy more quickly. This is good, right?
Wrong. The higher rate of energy production results in an
increase in off gassing; the water in the battery is vented out
as hydrogen and oxygen molecules and the rate of internal
corrosion, or sloughing, increases. This can result in a short
in one or more cells that is not noticed until cold weather
diminishes the overall ability of the battery.
What to Buy
When it comes to batteries for automotive use, there is no such
thing as a perfect battery. Any battery can fail if it is
neglected, constantly overloaded, or overcharged. The important
thing to remember is to get the right battery for your needs,
one that is rated for your vehicle and all the accessories you
use. Generally, this means a high Ah, high CCA, and high reserve
capacity. Also, make sure you buy a quality unit. Don't be
fooled by the low price of the budget shops. Batteries sold in
the no-name-battery discount stores often are poorly assembled
and use inferior materials in the plates and separators.
Name-brand batteries, such as AC-Delco, Sears DieHard, Exide,
Interstate, Optima, and others, are manufactured to the highest
standards, delivering high reliability combined with long life.
For off-road use, however, we feel that the recombination
battery is the best overall, since it delivers high output,
needs no maintenance, holds up well to the rigors of off-road
driving, and has a quick recharge rate, as well as a long life
span. It is a particularly useful battery for the off-roader
because it has no liquid to leak out and can be mounted in any
position (even upside down). Because of this, it won't corrode
battery trays or cables and is safe in a collision. You can
actually shoot a 45-caliber bullet through the battery casing
and it will still crank at full power. Try that with a
conventional battery, and you have a leaking mess that will at
best produce minimal voltage.
Although recombination batteries are sold under various brand
names, Optima's 800U is the original and also the only battery
available with both top posts and side terminals, a feature that
makes it especially well suited for specialized installations
and powering accessories and where there is installation room
for only one battery Since we also run a winch and driving
lights from the starting battery, it has to be a powerful one.
The 800 CCA and 120 minutes of reserve capacity the Optima
offers means we can rely on the unit as a power source for
lights and winch use when the engine is down, without
sacrificing starting ability. Additionally, the side terminals
make it easy to power the winch and other accessories directly
off the battery without disconnecting the main power cables and
disabling the vehicle's computer. This makes for a clean
installation without a lot of cable clutter at the main battery
posts, which is especially important when there's limited space
around the battery top.
About the author:
Visit AutomotiveGazette.com
- The Automotive Gazette weekly edition of car care articles,
automotive news and information on automotive repair for those
of us not adept at automotive troubleshooting.
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